Monday, August 30, 2010

Tid-Bits I've Noted

When a German and an American attempt to converse in French it sounds a little bit like Portuguese.

Listening to The Beatles' "Look at all the Lonely People" doesn't really fit in France

Bob Marley is all the rage.

Vespas have their place.

Work just as much as you have to, then stop.


Spending money on good food is always worth it. Always.


If you have the luxury of owning a second home, put it in the south of France.

Listening to live jazz can put you in a state of euphoria.

So can rain.


Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Avignon Yesterday, Today Lyon

Over the weekend I visited the small town of Avignon in the South East of France. Situated on the Rhone River, it is near the better known village and appellation, Chateauneuf du Papes. Since my train ticket passed through this town on my way back to Dijon, I decided to stop off for a few days to see if this town was just as cute as I had remembered it to be. The result: mixed feelings, unfortunately.
Cute candy shop I remember from the 1st time around

Since I visited Avignon two summers ago with DEVO, the wine club at Davis, and had only spent fleeting moments on those cobbled stone streets (with beverage in hand), this time the town did not appear quite the same. Somehow I missed the tourist-infested streets and bums-lying-in-wait first time around, but took note of them this time. With the exception for these people (and a common foul stench of dog poop), Avignon was just the same as it was before: quaint and historical, with a little more edge this time.
The graffiti scene is awesome. This was on the outside wall of a bar.

The Pope's Palace is indeed not to be missed, and a few other hidden treasures I found second time around: the Cinema Utopia, a jazzy establishment which shows independent films non-stop 2-10pm daily

Cinema Utopia
And the African-influenced restaurant, L'Empreinte. At this restaurant I had the tajine de poulet et citron, which is a dish of chicken, olives and couscous prepared in a clay pot from Mahgreb (Northern Africa). While the food was definitely good, the reggae music playing in the background set a very peaceful and enjoyable atmosphere as I read my book outside on the cobblestone streets.

L'Empreinte patio
The only thing that could've made it better was the company of a friend. C'est la vie quelquefois.

Today I am in the larger, more northern city of Lyon! Here I am surrounded by Rhone varietals of Syrah, Syrah, Syrah, Marsanne, Roussane, did I say Syrah? Oh, and a lot of food, a lot of really good food.
Surprisingly Lyon started out as a village of silk weavers, and eventually morphed into the gastronomic city that it is today. Also, this city attracts many movie buffs as it is home to the first (first!) motion picture to be filmed, La Sortie des Usines Lumieres. So, long story short, Laura is definitely happy here.
As I've told my friends, I plan to eat my way through this city, known for its food, as it is within the very country, known for its food. But, unfortunately I cannot afford that Michelin rated restaurant... Le Bec, as the menu starts at 118 euros.

So today for lunch I settled for the cheaper menu of Boeuf Carpaccio, Dijon Vinagrette Salad, and Potatos au Gratin with a slice of Tart Chocolat for 12 euros. Miam Miam, as the French say!

In between meals, I spent my time in the Musee des Beaux Arts and the Musee des Miniatures et Decors du Cinema.
The Museum of Beautiful Art, was indeed just that, as it is home to many famous paintings and sculptures which date back to nearly 300 and 400 B.C.! Everything in between then and now was just as fascinating, and I throughly enjoyed the Egyptian exhibit on mummifying and the tiled paintings from the 1600's in Turkey. In one painting or another I came to think about a lot of my family and friends, and wished I could share these moments with them.
(Or somehow steal a vase or two to give to my grandmothers...)
Egyptian tombs (I left the mummified hand and head off the site for the precaution of squirmish readers :)

In the miniature cinematic museum I became greatly absorbed into each miniature recreation of cinematic themes, and the realistic appearances of them all. The detailed work that went into each masterpiece on display was astounding.
A recreation of the famous restaurant, Maxim's

The miniature scene used for the set of Jurassic Park

A Painter's boudoir

Also just as interesting, were the costumes (and face recreations) on display from famous films such as The Terminator, X-files, Being John Malcowich, and V for Vendetta!

The Jon Malcowich mask used by other actors in the film Being Jon Malcowich

After tasting a few Rhone wines at the nearby Wine shop in Old Lyon I climbed the hill to my hostel to regroup for the evening. As I hear there is jazz playing tonight near the Beaux Art Museum, I feel a nap (une sommeil or petit siest) is called for in the meantime.

Best wishes and love. D'laur signs out.

Cheers!

Friday, August 20, 2010

How the French Vacation

In everything I’ve done these past two weeks, the same question keeps surfacing, “why me?”

How can a family be so generous to open up their vacation home in the south of France to two American wine students for two weeks?


Our room attached to the main house

But not only that; lend them their winery jeep to take day-trips to the surrounding towns and cities, feed them breakfast and lunch during work days, take them on a day-tip of canoeing with their kids, invite them to dinner with their winemaking friends, include them in wine tasting excursions, and to top it off take them out to a four-course meal at a quaint French restaurant in a nearby historic village?


I am baffled, awestruck, and envious of this family, but do not have the words, even in English let alone French, to thank them enough for their hospitality and graciousness that they have shown.

Since we have arrived here we have gotten to see a lot of the surrounding towns and cities, and also still find a great amount of time for rest and relaxation. Since the warm weather and lakes are hard to come by in Burgundy, we chose to spend our last few days just relaxing by the water.

This was one of the most relaxing vacations I have ever taken. Now I am looking forward to one final week of traveling adventures before returning to Burgundy.

Cheers!

Monday, August 9, 2010

Paris For A Week

Paris, ah Paris.

It's a lot like D.C.: metro, metro, metro, and you get where you need to go - fast. Like any big city with underground transportation, really. Except you're surrounded with... 1000 more years of history? And the best food and drinks - if you have the carefreeness to splurge.

Cafe Viennoise at Les Deux Moulins (the cafe where the famous Amelie worked): 4 euro

As one exits a metro, it's almost like waking up from a dreamless night’s sleep. The sunlight hits your face and you realize you can start your activities for the day. As your eyes adjust to the bright sunlight, you walk up the stairs to the nearest street. Focusing in upon a nearby café, cobble stone walkway, or majestic restaurant sign you situate yourself at once. Sidewalks are congested with tourists and Parisians, so you must move fast, with confidence. Even when lost, walk fast. Don’t stop and look at a map – you’ll be a target. Local merchants and gypsies will pounce at once and other tourists will scoff (or maybe just mean ones like me).

The view from Pont Neuf (a bridge connecting the Island of the Cite to the mainland)

In this metro, which you will get to know well, everything functions like a well oiled machine, that is, if you follow suit. If you insist on using English – again, be prepared for the gypsies lying in wait. Luckily for me, I only fell victim once due to my own stupidity and lack of good judgment. Thinking a snapshot of the fellow metro boarder playing the accordion was necessary, I was promptly targeted by a little gypsy boy for money. Holding out his tambourine for any change, I stared back at him and replied, “non merci”. Oddly enough, I thought he was handing me the tambourine to play along, and I held back the temptation to take his instrument and shake the bells. Good call.

Accordion Player. Don't be fooled like me

My goal for Paris was to avoid the other tourists at the historical hotspots. On this account, I was successful, but did not escape the crowds of the Parisians at the 5 o’clock metro rush hour. Crammed into one car like sardines, I look around for a maximum occupancy sign and find none – boeuf. Caroline grasps my arm and whispers, “I’d like to know people’s names before getting this close” – but unfortunately I think it’s a little too late for that. Luckily we’re in and out in a jiffy, and onto our celebratory night of my 22nd year of life. Yes!

Taking everything as it comes, my birthday went completely unplanned, and wonderfully executed. After meeting our new friend Will at the hostel the night before, an Irish man from Andorra, we invite him to follow Krystal and I in our adventures for the day (whatever they may be). Since Will was hitch-hiking his way from Andorra to Amsterdam, it was a treat to have him stay an extra day with us in Paris.

Surprised with a chocolate, maple custard crème puff at breakfast (with a candle in it), my blood sugar was high and ready for action! Since Caroline was only visiting for the day, I met up with her that afternoon at the Lafayette shopping mall, and we headed to the Luxembourg Gardens to rendez-vous with Krystal and Will. Relaxing in the summer sun and getting our fill of people watching, we concocted malicious schemes that we would only dream of executing. Though quite amusing, we resisted on acting on the pinpointed innocent civilian who needed to buy a belt, for the sake of all onlookers, and stop walking into Will’s photos. Though Will jokingly assured to pay Caroline 50 quid to tackle the man into the fountain, she knew better than to hold him to it. Ah, but how miraculous a sight that would have been, and how utterly confusing it would have been for this man. Enjoying his male companion’s company and then, BOOM tackled by an American who whispers “…butt crack..” and then bolts. Never again would he enter the beautiful garden, in fear of the butt-crack police who might lie in wait. That would definitely teach him for not dressing properly in Paris. So taboo.

The Luxembourg Gardens (sans butt-crack, photo-interrupting Parisian victim)

The night was kicked off with a great glass of Pinot from a Premier Cru of Domaine Tollot-Beaut, graciously donated by Caroline as we relaxed back at the hostel. Hearing that the Latin District is the place to go at night, we set out there with no specific location in mind for dinner. Luckily we stumbled upon a great restaurant offering a 3 course meal for a good deal, and settled in for a good two hour feast.

Will and Caroline with their 50cl of biere!

3rd course: Profiteroles aux chocolat!

Afterwards, we were all grins as we sauntered down the 1st district streets to the Louvre. Arriving to this majestic sight at midnight was the best decision of the entire trip. In almost complete solitude we got to enjoy the structure, history, and grandness of this museum. Lit-up by the surrounding lights, it sparkled under the night’s sky.

Sitting among the flowing fountains and glass pyramids, we four toasted to this great night with a glass of Alsacian Pinot gris. Slightly sweet with honey, plastic, and green aromas, this wine had a distinct but subtle Botrytis flavor on the tongue. Delicious J

All was calm and peaceful as we continued to stare up, taking in the detailed architecture of the Louvre .

While our metro ride back to the hostel was disrupted by construction in our line, none of us hesitated in seeking out the next best mode of transportation: bikes! With rental bike locations dispersed throughout the city of Paris, we found the nearest site and rented out as few bikes as needed…which turned out to be 3 for our four people gang. Maybe two and two wasn’t put together? In any case, Will and Caroline had the bicycle built for two down pat by the time we made it home an hour or so later!

Taking an unintentional scenic tour of downtown Paris we twisted and turned down streets until the proper directions was pointed out by a local. With no complaints from Krystal and I, we followed behind the circus bikers, enjoying the moment and blissfulness of this late night ride. It was the perfect way to work off the heavy meal without wearing away at our feet, enjoying the city without the rest of the curious world-travelers, and let loose while not being stared down by Parisians.

C’est la vie!

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Foux da fa fa


Foux da fa fa fa faaa aahhh.... Ay ya!

Oh Flight of the Conchords, you make France that much more enjoyable...


As I sauntered down the street last night, I couldn't help but sing this song. It feels as if one chapter has ended and another has just begun, and I am so excited for what is in store. Since my winery has given me the entire month of August off, I feel it best to travel around France and see what this country has in store. While I had been planning a 4-5 day road trip to Switzerland and Italy, unfortunately my plans had to fall through due to cost issues. It seems 21 year olds have higher insurance to pay for renting cars... as if they think 4 extra years will really improve my already impeccable driving? But I'm not complaining (any more) because Krystal and I have decided on the next best option: Go to Paris!

So we have just booked our hostel for the week and will be taking off tomorrow afternoon. This will be my first encounter with a hostel, but I do have high hopes for it, as it has a good reputation Internationally. It is just outside of the main district of Paris, off to the north, and supposively has a good night life. Which sounds promising, but could mean anything really... as I hear possums have good night lives too...

My childhood book

But in any case, I will definitely have adventures and pictures to share upon my return to Dijon on Saturday, and I look forward to sharing them all with you!

To all of the VEN 3 people that I have met on this trip: It was a pleasure getting to know you all here in France, and I had a blast living with you in the dorms. I wish the best to you all in your future endeavors - be it wine, or other!

Cheers!

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

H&M Dinner Party

Wait, how did I get invited to this dinner party with the college fashionistas of France?

As I sip my creme de framboise bubbly, I ponder this question.

Seated around a patio table in the backyard of this french maison, Mark, Krystal and I stare back and forth at one another in states of shock and bliss. French phrases fly threw the air as I try to grasp them to make sense of the conversation. Mark and I exchange quizical looks, indicating our loss, and quickly join into the English conversation with Anthony, a French guy who is eager to learn more about America.


Lucy explains the drink to Mark

Lucy and her drink concoction - delicious!

As Mark and Krystal are also from California and live in the dorms with me, this casual hang out with french people our age, nonetheless at a house, is hard to come by. Somehow these two hit the jack pot one night a few weeks back when they met Anthony, Lucy and their friends in downtown Dijon. Lucky for me, this time I got to tag along with them all to this gathering that Lucy was holding at her parent's house last night.

Given no other information other than to meet up with Anthony, Lucy and their friends at H&M, it was quite a pleasant surprise to find out that we would be joining them for a BBQ at a house. A house! After living in a dorm room for the past two and a half weeks, and 3.5 for Mark and Krystal, you can bet our giddiness to eat a home cooked meal, with all the amenities of a home.

As it turned out, everyone at the gathering worked together at H&M in Dijon, and all except for Lucy and Anthony only spoke French. So while many conversations were not enjoyed by all, we all found a way to communicate and have a good time. The most amusing connection that we shared, was our appreciation for 90's American TV shows. It seems that some of our worst soap operas are a hit over here... and showing up 10-15 years late. But hey, they're enjoyed at least!

So after drinking and eating a great meal of sausage, pork tenderloin, fries, salad, and bread, it was time to leave this good company. Lucky for me, it'll be easy to find them, as I frequent H&M...
Krystal and Lucy with the frite machine!

Cheers!


Monday, July 26, 2010

The Unpredictable is Never Boring

I have come to realize that the weather in Burgundy during the summer is quite unpredictable. The clouds shift so rapidly that a nice sunny day is nothing more than a tease as a soft rainfall begins to poor down. In an hour, the clouds lift again... but only to return moments later with a cool and tranquil breeze. It is enjoyable, relaxing, and beautiful. Whether I am sitting in my room, hanging out downtown, or working in the vineyards I am constantly aware of the subtle climate changes. In the vineyards, however, I have a clearer view of my surroundings and therefore a better appreciation for what hovers above my head.

A storm over the towns in Burgundy on Friday which thankfully missed us on the hill

Just last Thursday I fell victim to one such rainy day. It was raining cats and dogs, or as they say in France, "raining nails". Despite the moans and groans of my coworkers, the head viticulturist instructed us to go out and work on the vines. It was miserable. Unlike my treacherous bike ride in the rain, it was not enjoyable. It was cold and muddy, and I was tired and hungry. While I was fortunate to have a huge trench coat and boots to wear, I was more than ready to leave once the guys called it quits four hours later.

My goofy attire and goofy coworker, Christophe on Thursday

In contrast to this day, Friday turned out to be the complete opposite. Like night and day; Thursday unbearable, and Friday so perfect.

Just another Grand Cru vineyard on a gorgeous day, ya know

The air was crisp and clean as the smell of fresh soil drifted about on Friday morning. As the rainfall from the day before had soaked through the ground, all aromas of the terroir rose through the air with the evaporation from the sun. Trudging up the muddy rows on this bright sunny morning was both uplifting and promising. We were all in good moods due the aspect of the coming weekend, but I especially, was excited to find that my french had begun to improve! For once I could understand a good portion of the conversations between my coworkers, and not to mention, have the guts to respond with more than just a laugh. At one precise moment, I was struck with the excitement for my stay here, and the promise that I would eventually be able to become fluent in French. In a deep breathe, I took in everything around me, and blew out all doubt in my mind.
The crew taking a break

For the weekend, Caroline came to visit me in Dijon and we had a great time catching up over many great meals during her stay. On Saturday we went to the cinema to see Inception, and left the show in a very trippy trance. As some of the scenes take place in France, with streets very similar to those of Dijon, we felt as if we were in control of a dream as we walked out. It was a very well done movie, and I recommend it highly. (Even if a few of the lines were lost on me :)

This week I will be working in the vineyard, except for Thursday and Friday. On Thursday Pierre Vincent, the winemaker at the Domaine, will be taking Mariette and myself to a Tonnellerie in Dijon (barrel making site). This should be very informative, as Domaine de la Vougeraie selects their own trees from the Citeaux (forest) in Burgundy for their barrel production, and seasons (i.e. dries) the staves on the property for at least 2 years. At which point they go to a Tonnellerie to have their barrels made from their staves (strips of wood).

After this week I will have the entirety of August off! For two weeks I will be taking a French course, but have yet to decide where I should go for the other two weeks. Any suggestions!?

Cheers!