Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Avignon Yesterday, Today Lyon

Over the weekend I visited the small town of Avignon in the South East of France. Situated on the Rhone River, it is near the better known village and appellation, Chateauneuf du Papes. Since my train ticket passed through this town on my way back to Dijon, I decided to stop off for a few days to see if this town was just as cute as I had remembered it to be. The result: mixed feelings, unfortunately.
Cute candy shop I remember from the 1st time around

Since I visited Avignon two summers ago with DEVO, the wine club at Davis, and had only spent fleeting moments on those cobbled stone streets (with beverage in hand), this time the town did not appear quite the same. Somehow I missed the tourist-infested streets and bums-lying-in-wait first time around, but took note of them this time. With the exception for these people (and a common foul stench of dog poop), Avignon was just the same as it was before: quaint and historical, with a little more edge this time.
The graffiti scene is awesome. This was on the outside wall of a bar.

The Pope's Palace is indeed not to be missed, and a few other hidden treasures I found second time around: the Cinema Utopia, a jazzy establishment which shows independent films non-stop 2-10pm daily

Cinema Utopia
And the African-influenced restaurant, L'Empreinte. At this restaurant I had the tajine de poulet et citron, which is a dish of chicken, olives and couscous prepared in a clay pot from Mahgreb (Northern Africa). While the food was definitely good, the reggae music playing in the background set a very peaceful and enjoyable atmosphere as I read my book outside on the cobblestone streets.

L'Empreinte patio
The only thing that could've made it better was the company of a friend. C'est la vie quelquefois.

Today I am in the larger, more northern city of Lyon! Here I am surrounded by Rhone varietals of Syrah, Syrah, Syrah, Marsanne, Roussane, did I say Syrah? Oh, and a lot of food, a lot of really good food.
Surprisingly Lyon started out as a village of silk weavers, and eventually morphed into the gastronomic city that it is today. Also, this city attracts many movie buffs as it is home to the first (first!) motion picture to be filmed, La Sortie des Usines Lumieres. So, long story short, Laura is definitely happy here.
As I've told my friends, I plan to eat my way through this city, known for its food, as it is within the very country, known for its food. But, unfortunately I cannot afford that Michelin rated restaurant... Le Bec, as the menu starts at 118 euros.

So today for lunch I settled for the cheaper menu of Boeuf Carpaccio, Dijon Vinagrette Salad, and Potatos au Gratin with a slice of Tart Chocolat for 12 euros. Miam Miam, as the French say!

In between meals, I spent my time in the Musee des Beaux Arts and the Musee des Miniatures et Decors du Cinema.
The Museum of Beautiful Art, was indeed just that, as it is home to many famous paintings and sculptures which date back to nearly 300 and 400 B.C.! Everything in between then and now was just as fascinating, and I throughly enjoyed the Egyptian exhibit on mummifying and the tiled paintings from the 1600's in Turkey. In one painting or another I came to think about a lot of my family and friends, and wished I could share these moments with them.
(Or somehow steal a vase or two to give to my grandmothers...)
Egyptian tombs (I left the mummified hand and head off the site for the precaution of squirmish readers :)

In the miniature cinematic museum I became greatly absorbed into each miniature recreation of cinematic themes, and the realistic appearances of them all. The detailed work that went into each masterpiece on display was astounding.
A recreation of the famous restaurant, Maxim's

The miniature scene used for the set of Jurassic Park

A Painter's boudoir

Also just as interesting, were the costumes (and face recreations) on display from famous films such as The Terminator, X-files, Being John Malcowich, and V for Vendetta!

The Jon Malcowich mask used by other actors in the film Being Jon Malcowich

After tasting a few Rhone wines at the nearby Wine shop in Old Lyon I climbed the hill to my hostel to regroup for the evening. As I hear there is jazz playing tonight near the Beaux Art Museum, I feel a nap (une sommeil or petit siest) is called for in the meantime.

Best wishes and love. D'laur signs out.

Cheers!

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